Over the shirt would be the doublet and sometimes over that would be the jerkin. ( Ahh, remember that times where colder back then than now. They were having a mini ice age back then. Times where chilly, but it made for great clothes!) Doublets were fitted and cut at the waist. It was a garment worn by the upper class. It could be worn by itself, or under a jerkin. In the photo above Henry VIII is wearing only a doublet.
Doublets are more ornate and have sleeves. They were closely fitted to the waist and could have a straight skirt that was pleated onto it. (Ha! You better believe the men wore “griddles” underneath it, too!) It usually came to a point in front and the skirt came to the knees. The seam was hidden by a belt or ribbon girted around the